Sunday, July 24, 2011

Smile


A few weeks ago, we had a free day so a few girls and I visited the Artist’s Colony just outside one of the gates of the old city. We’d heard reports that there wasn’t much there and it was sort of lame, but the park behind it was supposedly pretty so we thought we’d go anyway.

As we walked down the empty street between the shops, we came across an interesting store front with a sculpture of what looked like rusted pots. Being the touristy girls that we are, we decided the sculpture merited a picture. As we stood in the front of the door, smiling for the camera, a white-haired old man with glasses and a pony tail emerged from the store and placed his hand over one of my friends’ head. Surprised, she turned around.

“Don’t you know that if the police saw you here, he could haul you off to jail?” he said.

Shocked, one of my friends’ eyes grew wide and she gasped, “Really?” In this country, you never can be sure about the government.

The old man laughed, and in his Hebrew accent replied, “No, no, can’t you see that I joke?” Relieved, my friend began to explain how we were just admiring the sculpture and wanted a picture. He was completely wonderful and we soon discovered his name was Motke and he’s lived in Israel nearly his entire life. After talking with him for a few minutes, he looked at each of us and said, “I see that you love to smile.”

Living in Jerusalem, we actually get this a lot. Everyone here recognizes us as “The Mormons,” and when we ask them how they can tell, they say, “Because you smile.” Personally, I think it’s probably the standard khaki pants, white V-neck and matching water bottle holders that give us away, but it’s a nice idea anyway.

“Smiling is good,” he said. “One time a rabbi told me that smiling is better than milk.” We kind of stared at him for a few seconds. “You see, what he meant was if there is a needy stranger, instead of inviting him in for milk, it is better to offer a smile,” he said. And you know, in some ways I think that might be true. Maybe all they need is a little lovin’.

“If you smile, you have a better life” he said, “when you are sad, you can’t think because there is so much,” he lifted his hands to his wrinkled face, searching for the word, “tension.” It was a little difficult to understand his accent, but it sounded like he said he knew this because of a certain time in his life that became all too clear when we stepped into his shop.

The walls in his small studio were lined with paintings, drawings, sculptures, and mixes of all three. Although he was perhaps one of the cheeriest men I’ve ever met, his artwork was dark and hauntingly reminiscent of the Jewish Holocaust. It showed gloomy dream-like cityscapes with dark skies, and limp bodies with tortured faces. It was the kind of art only a person who had experienced these horrors first-hand could create.

We began to ask him about his art and he told us he has paintings in prominent places such as the Smithsonian Museum in Washington D.C. and the Museum of Modern Art in New York. He even said Bill Clinton visited his shop once here in Jerusalem, and that is when I became a bit wary. I mean, come on. Bill Clinton? In his cramped little shop? Maybe this was just some crazy old man after all. He had to be at least 80 anyway.

Then he pulled down his guest book from off the shelf, flipped a few pages, and there it was: the John Hancock of Bill Clinton, if you know what I mean.  Shoot, maybe he was cooler than I thought. He invited us to sign the same guest book, and I suddenly felt way more legit with my name in the same guestbook as the former president of the United States.

It turns out after some internet stalking on my part, this guy is a world-famous artist, prominent award-winner, and survivor of a holocaust labor camp from which he escaped and took a boat to Israel. His art has become his way of coping with the nightmares and terrifying memories he still deals with every day. It made me wonder how a person who had been through such horror could even have the power left to live, much less enjoy life.

After we signed his book, he brought out a box full of small prints of his paintings. He handed it to us and told us to pick one out as his gift to us. I was touched by his kindness as I shuffled through each one. When we told him we had to leave, he thanked us for stopping in, and told us to keep being happy.

Now, every time I look at my signed Motke Blum print on my bulletin board, I can’t help but smile. 






Saturday, July 23, 2011

Christmas on the 4th of July

For the past 20 years of my life, I've celebrated Independence Day on the 4th of July. It just seemed like the appropriate thing to do, and I've never really put much thought into it. America, land of the free, home of the brave. Yeah, yeah.

This year, however, was different.

Partially because for the first time in my life, I'm not in the United States on the 4th of July, so nobody here gives a hoot, and partially because we celebrated a completely different holiday instead. It's funny how much you don't realize how free you are until you move to another country and at the first stop of your field trip, you pass through the West Bank separation wall and see signs like this:
It's a bit of a rude, although much needed awakening. How easy it is to take freedom for granted, and I'm sad to say I was, and probably still am far too guilty of this.

So, since this country doesn't celebrate the 4th of July, we decided to celebrate another one for which it has the most claim: Christmas. Yes, Christmas in July, and I'll never forget it. We started by visiting the Herodian, which actually didn't have much to do with Christmas except it was built by the guy who tried to kill baby Jesus. The Herodian is basically a man-made mountain where he built a fortress for himself. Really though, who makes a mountain? Couldn't he just be happy with a perfectly good mountain already there? There are plenty to choose from.

Next we traveled the 5 miles from Jerusalem to Bethlehem, the little town where it all began 2,000 years ago. It's an adorable little city with a church over the cave where tradition holds the baby Jesus took his first breath of mortality. It's one of the holiest sites in the entire world, yet I think the place I loved maybe even more than the spot itself were the shepherd's fields that overlook the precious little town.

The late-afternoon sun produced long shadows across the olive trees and turned the grass a beautiful gold. It was quiet out there with no sound but the gentle breeze, and soon a shepherd wandered by with his sheep. It was easy to picture angels appearing to humble shepherds in those fields, announcing the birth of the most important person this world would ever see. It made me wish I could be there too.

While it was powerful to stand in the very spot where Jesus began his life, I realized that it isn't the place where it happened that is important, but it's the fact that it happened. I didn't have to come to Bethlehem to find him like the Shepherds did so long ago, but I hope that now that I have found him, I never lose him.



The Herodian

We got a little plastered with all that Herodian plaster around

Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem

It made me feel a little Seattle in Israel on Christmas in July...well, almost.

O little town of Bethlehem


Shwarma


The actual spot where they believe Christ was born


Church of the Nativity

They sell these nativities everywhere, but this one beat them all. I think I might buy it as a souvenir for the mantle at Christmas


A few days later, we got to celebrate Independence Day for real, and man I forgot how much I love the good ol' US of A. We called it America Day, except we said it like George Bush, so we waved our paper American flags in each other's faces and said "Happy Murkeh Day." 

We ate hot dogs, hamburgers, corn on the cob and apple pie and then danced to Michael Jackson and Boston. At the height of our festivities, they even shot off some fireworks for us at the bottom of the hill. Okay, so maybe they do that just about every night for weddings in the city, but we liked it none-the-less. I truly love Israel, but man, God bless America, the best country in the world.





Yep, that's how we celebrate. Don't judge.

Saturday, July 9, 2011

With Love, From Jordan (the country, that is)

A few weeks ago we visited the lovely land of Jordan where the food was great (chicken, rice, humus and pitas), the people were friendly, and the sand was plenty. It was in many ways how you'd imagine the Middle East--lots of camels, traditionally dressed Arab people walking around, and block houses made out of white limestone on barren desert hills. We visited lots of ancient biblical sites, Roman sites, Nabatean sites and everything in between. It was a great adventure in the heat and sun, and below are just a few of the many pictures I took there.

Mt. Nebo, where poor Moses looked across at the promised land he couldn't have

The Jabbok river where Jacob wrestled the angel

Refusing to look at the brass serpent--urban style

Jerash

American Food!

The River Jordan, site of Jesus' baptism

This is an outdoor spritzer, AKA a heaven-sent machine of divine goodness at the Israeli-Jordanian border








Shobbak Castle








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